That woad tank was still there the next morning, calling my name. Using fabric scraps leftover from my stitching prep, I amused myself with ombre experiments. Not sure if it will last since many elements of the dye formula had become inactive overnight, but things were turning blue and it was just plain fun.
Later we all packed into the vans for a trip to Montpezat, a 14th century village on the crest of the hill outside my window. At night, it sparkled like a ship at sea. My kind of wonderland. Kaari called it a movie set, so beautifully charming and picturesque.
With hollyhocks. Who could ask for anything more?
The church of St. Martin welcomes visitors who come to view the rare Flemish tapestry from the 16th century. Although the panels tell a story, I got lost in the variety of beautiful wildflowers along the bottom.
After learning about woading and the history of the color, the blues everywhere in the village seemed even more striking.
The woad plant is a natural insect repellent. Apparently, the traditional blue coloring in the doors and shutters originates in woad's ability to protect and preserve wood.
Our walk through town took us to the tiny home and studio of Janine Dassonval, a renowned tapestry artist who creates enormous, wall-sized tapestries on commission from artists who want their work interpreted in this traditional form.
She is one of only 5 people in the world who still create in this format, spending 60-80 hours a week at the loom or finishing the back. Life's work seems a wild understatement.
Everything about her work and studio was mind-blowing and captivating.
Including her cat with woad blue eyes.
Before heading home, we stopped for coffee in the quaint village square. Some pulled their stitching from their bags and got to work. Personally, I was pretty thrilled to see everyone stitching just because they enjoyed it. All so lovely.
After a very full week of scooting all over the countryside, one of the things we still hoped to see were the blooming sunflower fields. Kind of a classic view for this part of France, they were almost ready to open, but just not quite there. It must have been funny to be in our van and watch the heads spin whenever we passed the green fields, everyone on the look out for Yellow. This was our last chance.
Finally, we passed a field that was barely yellowing on the edge - as if it was especially for us. Lizzie made a turn back for a quick stop.
That discovery and photo op was a highlight in such an unexpected way. We got the giggles as we tried to climb into the field over and through a deep drainage ditch, full of overgrown weeds. Holding each other's hands like a little chain, one by one, seven of us managed the challenge. We laughed even harder when Julie let us know that we could walk about 15 feet farther down the road and just step into the field. No ditch. Of course.
So, that's the thing about a trip like this. We started out as a loose group of quiet strangers from different backgrounds and personal histories. As the week wore on, the little events we shared -large and small- really did knit us together (going with the knitting metaphor now since I already used the quilting approach a few posts ago). The rest of the ride home to the chateau was a little bittersweet. Imagining the next day without all this sisterhood was sobering.
... until we got out the woad and wine again that night and had our beautiful farewell dinner in the garden.
Thank you so much to Kaari, Molly, Kick and Mogull at French General. And to Lizzie, Charlotte, Christopher, Michael and Laura at Chateau Dumas.
A week I'll always remember, with gratitude and many happy memories.
One more post about France to share with you. Paris.
xoC
Wonderful adventure, and great memories that will last a long, long time.
Ah, hollyhocks and sunflowers. I was in the town of Port Hadlock Saturday, and spied these enormous purple hollyhocks growing wild next to an antique store. That is a flower I do not see often enough, so was happy to see your photo.
The blue of the woad is such an amazing blue. Can you identify a DMC floss that is closest to the color you see when you look at the result of your dyeing efforts?
Posted by: karen on bainbridge island | July 30, 2012 at 12:10 PM
hmmmm. thats tough. woad colors differently depending on time and textile. #825 or 517 maybe.
Posted by: charlotte | July 30, 2012 at 12:17 PM
Amazingly beautiful! I hope to go there someday!
Posted by: Debby Schuh | July 30, 2012 at 12:22 PM
...got out the woad and wine again :) love that! So glad you had a wonderful trip...knew it would be amazing! :)
Posted by: Laura @ 52 FLEA | July 30, 2012 at 01:01 PM
Was starting to settle into routine of life -- thank you for taking me back to the great adventure!
Posted by: jane B | July 30, 2012 at 01:33 PM
Thanks for the DMC hint about woad blue...I will check those two colors out. I figured it would vary, but just wanted a hint on what your eye tells you is close.
I am working an embroidery that I sketched for a friend that is supposed to remind you of little French seaside cabanas...I'm sure there is a French word for that, don't know what it would be. I thought working it in a single color of some French blue would be appropriate. All the pictures you have posted showing the results of the dyeing are just such pretty colors of blue.
Posted by: karen on bainbridge island | July 30, 2012 at 02:03 PM
What a beautiful post. Loved all of your pictures! Thank you for sharing with all of us. So glad you had such a good time. Take care!
Posted by: Teah B. | July 30, 2012 at 10:43 PM
Oh, Charlotte, I don't want your trip to end! Thank you so much for taking us along.
The spools of thread that she is using to weave are just incredible, the hues, the shades of blue are just dreamy.
On to Paris!
Posted by: Suzy McQ | July 31, 2012 at 10:40 AM
A little "ohhhhh hollyhocks", escaped my lips when I saw your photo, there's not much I love more than hollyhocks and sunflowers right up there beside them.
I do love blue so very much. To think I'd never heard of woad dying before. So lovely and so much fun - adore the photo of you all in your splendid woadedness! :)
Thank you so much for introducing us to Janine too. Such artistry, such devotion - gives me the tingles. WOW!
Can't wait to see your finished chateau stitchery.
Thinking of you and sending lots of bloggy love your way,
Sally xo
Posted by: Sally | July 31, 2012 at 12:34 PM
Love your posts! Thank you so much for sharing your adventure. My daughter lived in Toulouse for a while....
she loved it too.
Laura
Posted by: Laura | August 01, 2012 at 08:49 AM
Thanks Charlotte for putting such wonderful words and photos to go with the memories. In my minds eye I am there many times a day. xoxo Donna C
Posted by: Donna C. | August 01, 2012 at 10:30 AM
Looks like you had a really lovely experience. The perfect trip to France. I really love seeing your beautiful photos especially this last set with the woad blue theme. :)
Posted by: Cyndi | August 01, 2012 at 12:18 PM
I'm also sad your holiday snaps are ending--and I'm saying that with tongue in cheek, as they are very professional! I've loved reliving it all, and can't wait to hear and see what mischief you all got up to in Paris!!
Posted by: Barbara | August 06, 2012 at 01:25 AM
I love the color of the woad. I had read about it, but had never seen it. So beautiful. Thank you so much for the tour. I will miss traveling with you. ;)
Posted by: Jeannie | August 06, 2012 at 10:58 PM
Another wonderful, beautiful installment...total fun to tag along with you, Charlotte! And now, Paris...wheeee!...xox
Posted by: Linda Warlyn | August 08, 2012 at 12:42 PM